Sangoma Journey Diary RSS Feed

“The Time is Ripe”

I watch the clouds this morning gather in the glowing rising sun, and hear someone saying in yesterday’s Connecticut afternoon, “It’s so hot!” …I guess. Our sunshine does not have the walloping blast the sun gives in Africa.  The feel of the African sun is very hot indeed, not like anything I’d felt before. It’s as if it could casually fry off a person’s skin. When it would sizzle mine so slightly, and make me pink, in my mind I’d say “African sun. African sun is intense.”

I have been wondering about what heat does to a person- how pressure cooks the meal. How tough things become tender and juicy in a slow-cooking oven. There is a tiny goldfinch in our far away garden now, and he is flying carefully from the top of the little shovel stuck in the ground beneath the tree, and on to the planted soil, from which little sprouts grow, and perhaps this bright flying daffodil has found some extra seeds. He’s careful to find cover because the hawk that flies through each day looks for little morsels such as himself. It makes the goldfinch shy in a way, and ephemeral in his coming and going. Seeing him brightens my heart.

Part of the Greyhound pack with Antoinette.

This week I bought ground beef at the store, and I wondered how the cow was killed. In line with other cows, completely freaking out? It turned my mind to Dance Morning Star (regal hunter), the massive black greyhound of Oom Johannes and Antoinette at Theefontaine. Dance Morningstar is solid speed and rippled muscle. He has an eye that seems just a bit off, which gives him a goofy approachable countenance despite his somewhat intimidating sir dogness. Dance leads the pack of ten dogs that hunt on behalf of Oom and Antoinette. Together the dogs chase animals as large as antelope and as small as rabbit. Their running exhausts their chase, and allows them the chance to lunge in for the throat and silence the breath. After the hunt, the dogs receive half the meat.

Antoinette has a shiningness about her forehead, a softness to her eyes. Have you ever had a baby stare at you? Did the baby lock eyes and oogle at you in wonder? I felt like a baby staring at Antoinette; she is natural and hence unpredictable and beautiful. In some moments I even forgot about appropriate amounts of eye contact until she smiled gently, sweetly closed her eyes, and tilted her head down. And then I could no longer see her kind face, and would remember I was sitting there, staring at her. She invited us in for tea to her living room each day, sometimes as the rain roared on the tin roof, and she burned herbs to offer to the weather. There was little speaking when the thunder boomed, out of respect. Antoinette sat in her chair next to the candle chandelier that lit the small room, and Oom Johannes sat to her right, then Steve, me, Nik, Roger, and Tarynn. Sometimes our knees touched beneath the low ceiling, and it made me feel cozy. The evening we arrived, we sat together like that. Antoinette brought us all a mug of rooibos tea upon a tray with tiny spoons too, then she left for the kitchen again, and brought out a white bucket. “This is wild honey that Oom Johannes collected, please have some.” We all lit up, knowing this was really really good stuff in the bucket. I peered in to see the brown gooey slick peppered with honeycomb. The honey still had its bee aura on it, as if one was still flying around saying, “We made that!” And I wondered what audaciously rare blooms the bees had rolled in before coming home to the hive. As I dipped in the spoon, I wondered too how in the world did magical Oom Johannes go up to an African honey bee hive, take some of their honey, live to smile about it, and then go on and offer strangers the gold of his seriously skilled work? After stirring the liquid amber into the tea, I licked the slick on my spoon. And a shot of o my God whizzled into my brain, and I smiled wide-eyed at Oom Johannes, who laughed his belly laugh, knowing full well how sweet it is.

Two hearts at Antoinette's door.

We all sat there drinking our tea, and there was a delight about our traveling troupe, and it reminded me of the way I feel sitting with my grandfather, who likes to surprise his family with goodies and stories that make you feel special. Tarynn had her hand draped across her stomach, as I’d seen her do for a few days now. She half-heartedly stroked her tummy from time to time, which meant nothing unless you had eyes to see. Oom Johannes said something across from her in Afrikaans, and Antoinette asked, “You are in pain in your stomach?” Tarynn nodded. Antoinette disappeared into the kitchen again, and came out with a little jar. “Traveling can be hard on digestion. This is a blend of many herbs,” and she gave Tarynn a spoonful. “You will notice there are hard bits, which is the ostrich egg shell. It helps move things along.” Nik asked if he could have some too? Antoinette gave him a spoonful, and as he worked his mouth around the powdered herbs a kind of happiness lit him up, which told us all it was a good thing, and soon Steve, then Roger and me were swallowing assorted herbs punctuated by ostrich eggshell, and relaxation pervaded the room. Everybody knew at that moment (I’m willing to say) that here we did not need to be anyone important, here with these caring people we could be whatever it is that we are.

Roger filming Oom Johannes inside his cottage

I felt that way as I layed down on the bed in Oom Johannes’ cottage, upon the crocheted colorful quilt, and looking up there stood Antoinette and Oom. It was all right not to be strong around them. Oom placed his 94 year old hands on my calves with a salve, and smoke rose from my right leg. Antoinette asked, “Did you see the smoke?” Yes. Oom twisted my arms in different contortions as he felt the heartbeat inside my elbows. He then leaned in with his ear against my chest, and then again, listening intently. Thank God, I thought to myself as memories of serious cardiologists wearing thick glasses floated in my mind, thank you for this real doctor. Oom and Antoinette spoke together, and Antoinette leaned in to hear my heart. She said, “You can sit up now.” And she told me about the way the heart is beating, that it was beating heavy. She asked, “Do you know why your heart is heavy?” And I told her I could not figure out, I keep trying to figure things out with people, especially when they do things I don’t understand, and it makes my heart hurt, and I feel confused. She asked slightly aghast, “Can’t you remove yourself from these people?” That question alone freed me- wasn’t I supposed to cherish everyone? Maybe not! What a great idea! She told me, “I too have trouble being around people.” And again in a moment with Antoinette and Oom Johannes, my whole self relaxed. Together they told me that all this thinking in a heart was too much for one heart. And now I remind myself that this complex (unbelievably complex) world is not my responsibility to alter or understand. Maybe it is for some people, but for me, I can tell you- it is too much to understand. To gather food from the earth and watch the goldfinches fly is all right, is enough. So said the medicine people in the South African karoo…

The Griqua Healer & his Apprentice – Final Travel Update

Oom Johannes’s apprentice Antoinette Pienaar sings a farewell song to our team of travellers. The footage depicts a glimpse of our healing at TheeFontein and of the transformative wild Karoo that surrounds their farm.

Art from the Fire


Hi there, friendly traveler. This is Shannon checking in with some art I made this week inspired by the Fire Ceremony- hope you enjoy. Am still integrating our experience here- finding it hard to write a journal entry while feeling quiet and a bit confused. South Africa’s got a lot going on. The kingfisher here is one that Steve and I saw on the coast near Addo park- a beautiful bird. There’s lots of beautiful birds here! With such lovely songs too.

Traveling with Sangomas


As we journey with the Sangomas Sarah and Muvo we discover various cleansing methods. The transformation each of us underwent proved the power of these ancient techniques to us. We also made two amazing new Sangoma friends in the process.

Sangomas Sarah and Muvo with Makhosi Mkhize

Happy Greetings! Tonight we culminate an extraordinary week with our now dear friends and Sangomas, Sarah and Muvo. They have taught us a beautiful word from the Sangoma tradition that we greet each other with meaning “High Spirit- Raised Spirit” and is a greeting to you and your ancestors. Raise both hands and say Makhosi (mA-KO-zee)

Muvo and Sarah in the nMngeni Valley

Tonight Sarah and Muvo host a traditional Sangoma Ceremony- and it involves a lot of dancing! With the elders! We’re excited to experience it and are so grateful that they’re allowing us to film it in order to share with you. As preparations for tonight swirl about, I want to take some time to fill you in on this week. (It’s Shannon, by the way- Hey! Thanks for being here!)

A little background before some stories: We’re in the Province of KwaZulu-Natal in Karkloof Valley. Overlooking the Valley is Mpumakhasi, the sacred hill. Next to the Karkloof Valley is the nMngeni Valley, within which rests stone walls built in the Late Iron Age. The land here is rife with ancient human history. Paintings made long long long ago on cave walls fade slowly above rivers that flow through rolling green hills and mountains. Overlooking the valleys is a great line of mountains called the Drakensberg that loom high overhead. At their highest peaks begins the independent land of Lsutuland, sometimes called the Tibet of Africa, where tribal women and men ride ponies across the snow. As we have driven through KwaZulu-Natal, I have felt like we are in Scotland perhaps, or the Swiss Alps in summertime. I have to keep reminding myself that Africa is far more luscious than I ever expected.

This Wednesday Sarah and Muvo took us to see Baba Mkhize (mmKAY-zee): a leading Sangoma in Ixohbo, about 2 hours south of where we’re staying in the valley. We met him in downtown Ixohbo, where he took us to the grocery store and motioned for us to fill the cart with whatever we liked- we chose fruit, juice, cookies, and sausage- tea snacks and meat, if you will. Baba Mkhize speaks Zulu and tiny bit of English. None of our film team speaks Zulu, but thankfully Muvo (as a Zulu) does, and he has been gifting himself as an interpreter for us. After Baba Mkhize treated us at the grocery store, he had us follow him home. We chugged on along dirt road, waving back to the uniformed children as they walked miles from school to home, and we climbed as they did high into the verdant mountains. Here’s the view:

Baba Mkhize has a booming practice as a Sangoma, and smiles as he looks into us each eye to eye. His eyes sparkle. When we arrived at his home, his family crowded out of the shade to greet us. First we entered a larger building on his land, a round cool clay house with a thatched roof. We sat on the right side of the hut with the men, and his wives and children sat on the left hand side. He has four wives and 22 children. As we moved into the round house, Muvo produced the rooster he had caught in his and Sarah’s yard that morning. “This chicken is a gift from you all, will you please present it? It is a heavy chicken, hold it on both sides.” Steve and I with Tarynn handed it to Baba Mkhize. Earlier in the day Muvo had been shy about the chicken- maybe we shouldn’t film it or people will say things about Sangomas using animals. I said that in the United States we have artificial this and artificial that- even when we go to the doctor, we don’t pay the doctor face to face; usually it’s a health insurance company that does the payment in chunked numbers. A chicken is something real. Muvo considered it, “Hmm. I see what you are saying.”

Muvo takes the rooster out of the box

The conversation began with a sniff; Baba Mkhize placed a small pile of powdered tobacco and aloe plant on our hands. “What do we do with this?” I asked. Sarah leaned over to whisper instructions, “Put your nose closely to it and breathe in. Not too much at once, just gently- or else you’ll sneeze like crazy.” With one efficient sniff, the brown powder coated the inside of my now burning nostrils and tears flowed. I’ve never sniffed cayenne, but maybe that’s what it feels like? Sarah said it opens your third eye, and after the heat subsided, I felt clear and generally happy. Tarynn whispered, “We ought to get some of this for the ride back.” We had a collective nervousness about getting off the mountain later that night. After our eyes were bright and watery, we all settled in to talk. Baba Mkhize said he’d like to come to America, since it seems like people from America are interested in what he is doing. Though he wanders if anyone would come to see him, since he hears most people in America see only traditional doctors. I told him (or rather, Muvo told him) for the most part that’s true, but there is a growing group of people who appreciate shamans. He smiled. Later he asked Steve, “What do you think we can do to stop the spraying of chemicals on our land?”

“Baba Mkhize, we have that problem in America too.”

He led us to the top of his property as the sun lowered. We talked of medicine and ancestors. “The ancestors will tell me the medicine to give. Sometimes the ancestors say that this person will not become well again, they are coming to meet us. And I give them medicine to feel peace.”

“You help people when it’s their time to die?”

“Yes. The ancestors are very happy to see them. It is like when a baby is born here. Very happy to see you.”

Baba Mkhize on the mountaintop

The Journey Begins – Sneak Peak

Historian Storyteller Extraordinaire on Camera

Team Meets Up in Johannesburg

Squatter Camp in Johannesburg

Squatter Camp in Johannesburg

Good Day! Thank you for coming to visit the project page! This is where we’ll keep you abreast of the film project and its adventures.

Saturday night we all reunited here in Johannesburg- Tarynn, Roger, Steve, and Shannon picked Niklas up at the airport. It was a safe trip, thankfully, since getting used to driving on the left side of the road and taking main highways. Our primary concern in Johannesburg now is safety, as there is an abundance of violent crime occuring here. Even the most populated city in Africa retains its wildness. The extremes like this portion of a squatter camp above, are everywhere visible here.

Monday we were all extremely pleased to enjoy the filming of radiant Roger Webster, South African historian and storyteller, and his friend Peter Haywood. Together they told us rousing tales of Africa. Peter described how little Zulu children tend the greatest wealth of the tribe- the cattle. He said, “That cattle is wealth. That’s real wealth you can use. Do you wonder why you came here to learn about these tribes? Perhaps you have come to this place to find a part of yourself.” Peter leaned in to us gently stating, “If these tribes go, a part of your own self goes. They are the embodiment of our human knowledge… our knowledge of how to survive. Their legacy is survival. Now that’s real sustainability.”

Greetings!

Jubilant Greetings! It’s 1am in Johannesburg, South Africa this morning and our whole team is together after picking Niklas up at the airport. Logging on to the internet, we see that Sangoma supporters on kickstarter.com have brought us to the fundraising goal! Thank you everyone! We are going to bed for a few hours, then rising to enjoy a great Sunday breakfast together. The day will be filled with new Johannesburg friends, checking filming equipment, outfitting the van Tarynn’s father provided, and a meeting on film logistics. We’re so happy to be sharing this journey with you!